没穿过老虎皮的男人,都是软蛋
当北京终于刮起妖风,姑娘们也收起短裙、换上万恶的长裤时,我就知道——
冬天终于来了!
杜少我始终无法理解,在这个最容易搭配衣服的黄金季节,为什么直男仍然只会穿千篇一律的格子衬衫?
这种让人看起来萎靡不振的外套,绝对是「姑娘看到捂眼,男人穿了杀精」的毁灭性武器。
朋友们别忘了,秋冬是成熟的季节啊!
为了展现真男人的一面,杜少今天必须得介绍一种能让你「重振雄风」的王牌战袍:
横须贺夹克。
这种夹克诞生于日本三浦半岛的城市横须贺,并由此得名。
说白了,就是刺绣夹克。
做工极为精致是横须贺夹克的典型特点。即使最熟练的绣工,绣制一件夹克也需要20-30小时。
横须贺夹克之所以能够惊艳世人,一炮走红,就是因为它那极具冲击力的刺绣——
尤其是虎纹案。
虎文化在日本渊远流长。尽管日本自古以来并不存在虎这一物种,但日本人从中国的传说、故事以及见闻中,形成了对虎的尊敬和畏惧。
日本有一句流传已久的谚语——「古屋の漏るは虎狼よりも恐ろしい」,译成中文就是「屋漏猛于虎」。
可见,在日本人心中,虎是强力、令人畏惧的象征。
在平安时代(794-1185),从中国传入的虎骨在一次大瘟疫中救了天皇的性命。从此,虎对于日本人,多了一份亲近感和生命感。
与之相随的是,老虎的药用价值广为人们接受,其中最著名的当属虎鞭的壮阳作用。
至今,大阪每年11月举行的神农祭都会免费发放纸制的老虎,祈祷人们远离疾病。
日本人还喜欢老虎画,官府寺庙、名门豪宅大都藏有虎画以充门面。
在京都著名的鞍马寺,镇守山门的不是常人印象中的石狮子,而是石虎。
二战结束以后,驻扎在横须贺港的美军士兵希望带一些当地纪念品回国,并最先在自己的制服上绣上与日本传统文化相关的图案。
虎成为了他们追捧的对象。
从此,这款夹克就和虎纹结下了不解之缘。
而在普通日本人眼里,这只威风凛凛的虎,和嚣张跋扈、趾高气昂的美国大兵,仿佛融为一体。
实在爱不起来。
更重要的是,横须贺夹克作为一群热血军人爱穿的单品,天然地象征着许多与战斗、嗜血、死亡等相关的主题。
这些东西对于战后满目疮痍的日本,实在是过于沉重。
战争带来的创伤,整整影响了几代日本人。虎纹案越是奔放、颜色越是鲜艳,越是反衬了日本人现实中的无力感、心理上的屈辱感。
感时花溅泪,恨别虎惊心。
横须贺夹克见证了日本的最低潮。
后来,由于张狂的虎头配上干练的版型,这款夹克受到了暴走族和机车党的青睐,逐渐成为了「街头混混」的固定搭配。
这股风气在很多影视剧和动漫中都有反映,比如「热血高校」男主坊屋春道。墨镜+染黄的头发,再配上一件虎纹的横须贺夹克,一个不良少年的形象跃然纸上。
正因为这种关系,横须贺夹克仿佛染上了一层「坏坏的气质」,更让一般日本民众敬而远之。
在世人的偏见中,这只老虎沉沦了50年。
直到2016年的四大时装周,横须贺夹克终于全面回归,时尚界举足轻重的品牌都在这一季推出了图案各异、款式相近的横须贺夹克,虎纹案重新回到人们的视野。
其中还融入了不少日本文化对虎独有的想象:
完美融合了传统与现代,既表达了个性又不失优雅,时装小怪人们对横须贺夹克的狂热根本把持不住!
就连那些内心狂野的姑娘们,也都成为横须贺夹克的忠实拥趸:
名媛Olivia Palermo在伦敦时装周上就穿了虎纹的双面夹克。
个人风格一向奔放的美国歌坛吸金女王Katy Perry,也穿上了蓝色的虎头刺绣夹克,并拍摄了单曲「Roar」的封面。
毫无疑问,今天的虎纹横须贺夹克,已经成为年轻人释放内心狂野的最佳武器。
「心有猛虎,细嗅蔷薇」,这种话是说给文艺小青年听的。
真正不甘平凡的年轻人,就应该将内心的「虎」性尽情释放。
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